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Oblivion Keyblade Tutorial by RedShotRonin Oblivion Keyblade Tutorial by RedShotRonin
Well, here it is finally. It's long and big, so be prepared. I hope you guys have a good time with it and get some awesome stuff from it!

Good luck with any Oblivions you take a crack at, and if I missed anything or you have other questions, feel free to ask. By the way, it should say Emiline down at the bottom there. I've no idea why the last line didn't show up. And why I didn't notice it until now. Oh well.

The work waits! Get to it!
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:iconchiisancullen:
ChiiSanCullen Featured By Owner Dec 7, 2013
I downloaded this and printed it out four years ago but being a broke middle schooler I couldn't afford to make it. But now I have a friend who is making a 3D prop weapon and I remember this and now I'm gonna give it a shot! Anything I should know if I decide to not use Resin? I've seen your comments saying you've done it differently but never updated the tutorial.

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:iconredshotronin:
RedShotRonin Featured By Owner Dec 11, 2013  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
I haven't yet, nope. >.< To be honest, since I was making so many, I eventually just made a master mold for myself. Makes things way easier for me, but doesn't really help other folks who want to make one for themselves >.<

If you decide not to use resin, just make sure to test out what you want to try to make sure it'll work well. A good paper mache` recipe can always be found, or layers of gesso, or any other way you might care to try. Also, if you go the non resin route, you might want to add some thing to help stabilize the weakest point of the keyblade by adding dowels/strips of wood/small metal rods at the skinny point right before the 'teeth' of the keyblade.

If you end up with any questions during the process, feel free to shoot them over! 
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:iconshortethan:
ShortEthan Featured By Owner Nov 22, 2013  Student Filmographer
heyo nother question lol. do you know what type of resin is needed? i found crystal sheen online but i was wondering if i might be able to find something locally...
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:iconredshotronin:
RedShotRonin Featured By Owner Nov 25, 2013  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
I live in Atlanta, so I end up getting my resin from a place called the Engineer Guy. But there's not really a lot of places like them around. If you find a clear, equal two parts resin somewhere close to you, send me over the link and I can probably tell you if it'll work for you!
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:iconshortethan:
ShortEthan Featured By Owner Nov 25, 2013  Student Filmographer
okie! ^_^ but resin for does fiber glass resin not work? www.homedepot.ca/product/bondo… if not then ill probably have to order the resin online.
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:iconredshotronin:
RedShotRonin Featured By Owner Nov 25, 2013  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
There are all different sorts of fiberglass resin, but don't use that kind! It comes in two parts, a main part and a little tube with hardener (chemical activation stuff) and is typically amber colored, not clear or white. The stuff smells awful, tends to cause allergic reactions, is more difficult to combine correctly, and just is all around much less pleasant to work with. I'd go for ordering something better online.

It depends on what sort of cure time/coloring/other specs you might want, but I might suggest checking out a company called Smooth-On. www.smooth-on.com/  They make great products and have some good videos too! I use Smooth-Cast 325 Colormatch quite a bit, but I've gotten pretty comfortable with resins and epoxies. It has a pretty short working time, so you might want something you can futz around with longer if you're unsure about working with it. You can also look up the Engineer Guy  www.theengineerguy.com/ I know the folks that run the store personally, and you can always call them up, explain what you want to do, and they'll steer you in a good direction. Plus they have small trial kits you can buy, to try something new out.

Sorry if that's more info than you wanted, but I hope it helps!
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:iconshortethan:
ShortEthan Featured By Owner Nov 26, 2013  Student Filmographer
oh wow thanks for all the info! I really appreciate it! :) i want to make sure my key blades are done right! So im very great-full for your help! I will most certainly look into using smooth on and trying different resin's! :D 

I want to make my keyblades look as best as possible so thanks again for all your help ^_^ Your oblivion is still the best looking one ive found. and it's foam and not wood even! love your work! You should try the BBS keyblades if you have time for it! 
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:iconredshotronin:
RedShotRonin Featured By Owner Nov 26, 2013  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
I should! And thank you ^-^ Also, another reason for not using that other resin: more than likely it will eat your foam. Probably should have lead with that. >.<
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:iconshortethan:
ShortEthan Featured By Owner Nov 26, 2013  Student Filmographer
haha i figured that i would. would this stuff work tho? it's super cheep and convinent is why im asking creative-wholesale.com/Crystal…
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:iconredshotronin:
RedShotRonin Featured By Owner Nov 26, 2013  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
I've used that before, it should do you just fine ^-^
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(1 Reply)
:iconshortethan:
ShortEthan Featured By Owner Oct 3, 2013  Student Filmographer
Hey how much did it cost to make? i know it will vary but do you have a general idea? 
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:iconredshotronin:
RedShotRonin Featured By Owner Oct 3, 2013  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
If you already had all of the tools you needed...around $60?... Housing foam, $15, model magic pack, $5, plastic chain, metal chain, maybe another $15...  Sculpty, $5, then the resin...depending if you used it, and what sort and how much you got, maybe $20.

I make a lot of these, so I use all of the chain up and buy resin and such in bulk, so it costs less for one, so that figure is a bit of a ballpark. >.<
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:iconshortethan:
ShortEthan Featured By Owner Oct 3, 2013  Student Filmographer
Okay thanks! :) i figured it would be something like that 
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:iconxxpencilonpaperxx:
xxPencilOnPaperxx Featured By Owner Apr 20, 2013
I'm actually making this for Anime Boston this next month, and I was wondering how sturdy it was having used foam insulation. That's what I bought, and I just want to know if I should try to re-enforce it with anything. The last thing I want is it cracking in half as soon as it touches something D:
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:iconredshotronin:
RedShotRonin Featured By Owner Apr 20, 2013  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Totally reinforce, especially at the weakest points. (Base of handle, ie, where the big blue jewel is, and where the chain part ends.) Shove dowels in there. To strengthen mine up, I have big sheets of thin plastic I cut to to use as a layer before everything gets resined. If you don't have time for that, use strips of a thin but tough substance and glue the hell out of them to the inside and outside edges of the chain holding portion of the keyblade, if that's making sense.
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:iconxxpencilonpaperxx:
xxPencilOnPaperxx Featured By Owner Apr 21, 2013
All I really have are two sheets of home insulation board, and a whole bunch of wire coat hangars that I was going to pull apart to stick inside. Plus, regulations for the convention prohibit the use of wood, piping, or any other relatively hard and blunt object as part of props. Also, I don't have resin, but I have Mod Podge, which is a bit weaker but works the same when you add a few coats.
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:iconredshotronin:
RedShotRonin Featured By Owner Apr 21, 2013  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Give it a go then! Or you can try a thick paper mache` coating over the foam. I have heard people have had good results with that.

Best of luck ^-^
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:iconcryofireproductions:
CryoFireProductions Featured By Owner Mar 4, 2013  Student General Artist
this one looks really good. i just finished resanding/priming my oblivion. (made b4 seeing this tutorial :p. srry bout that.)

check out my profile i have a WIP image posted
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:iconredshotronin:
RedShotRonin Featured By Owner Mar 4, 2013  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
It's looking good ^-^ Good luck with finishing it off!
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:iconliam915:
Liam915 Featured By Owner Dec 12, 2012
Wow this is awesome I'm gonna try this
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:iconredshotronin:
RedShotRonin Featured By Owner Dec 13, 2012  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Thank you ^-^ Good luck with it! I always like to see after people give it a go.
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:iconfixinman:
fixinman Featured By Owner Oct 25, 2012  Hobbyist General Artist
This surprising, I thought something like resin would melt the foam. Another alternative is what I use, paper glued on with white glue. Use drywall or wood filler to smooth it out and prime it.
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:iconredshotronin:
RedShotRonin Featured By Owner Oct 26, 2012  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Amber colored resin -will- melt foam, I warn about that up at the top. I've changed a few steps since I made this, so perhaps if I ever make version 2.0 of this I'll put it in big bolder letters to warn folks next time. The resin I use now is called Smooth Cast 305. I get it from a place called 'The Engineering Guy' that's based here in Atlanta. Sadly, you can't much get it at Home Depot or the like. >.<

I've experimented around with ways to get around resin for folks that can't get hold of it, but your results with that technique look lovely, so that sounds like a good way to me!
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:iconfixinman:
fixinman Featured By Owner Oct 26, 2012  Hobbyist General Artist
The thing about the paper is it actually makes the prop really strong. I broke one katana once and it took a lot of force to do it.
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:iconleaderofthepack298:
Leaderofthepack298 Featured By Owner Sep 6, 2012
How much did this end up costing?
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:iconredshotronin:
RedShotRonin Featured By Owner Sep 7, 2012  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
The answer to that question sort of depends on what you already have or can borrow. If you have to go out and buy a jigsaw, sander, all the paint needed, plus the other disposable items, it can cost quite a large chunk of change.

If you already have access to those things, the housing foam will cost around $18. A packet of Model Magic will be around $5. The resin can be bought in smaller quantities for around $25. The chains will be between $7-$12 each. A piece of craft foam might be a few bucks. Afraid that's about the best estimate I can give, given I don't know what people might already have.
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:icongreengrasspony:
Greengrasspony Featured By Owner May 28, 2012  Student General Artist
how thick was the foam board you used?
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:iconredshotronin:
RedShotRonin Featured By Owner May 28, 2012  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
An inch or so.
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:icongreengrasspony:
Greengrasspony Featured By Owner May 29, 2012  Student General Artist
thanks I got 2 inches and it's such a pain
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:iconredshotronin:
RedShotRonin Featured By Owner May 29, 2012  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
yeah, 2" thick foam is hard to cut. >.<
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:icongreengrasspony:
Greengrasspony Featured By Owner May 29, 2012  Student General Artist
no kidding, and sanding with sand paper at that. -sigh-
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:iconredshotronin:
RedShotRonin Featured By Owner May 29, 2012  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
That must have taken...not a short amount of time. >.<
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:icongreengrasspony:
Greengrasspony Featured By Owner May 29, 2012  Student General Artist
still working on my chakrams, I sort of abandon the project for a while-whoops
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:icongreengrasspony:
Greengrasspony Featured By Owner Apr 8, 2012  Student General Artist
this is amazing. I'm really regretting making my chakrams out of thick foambord and sanding everything down.
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:iconredshotronin:
RedShotRonin Featured By Owner Apr 8, 2012  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Thank you *^-^* I've done that before for different props, like the 'Two Across' keyblade, which has a lot of angles going on in it. It takes a hell of a lot more time and effort, doesn't it?

I've considered doing it for chakrams, and have seen examples of it where they look beautiful, but once again. Time. Effort. Expense. >.<

I hope your Chakrams turned out well anyways! ^-^
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:icongreengrasspony:
Greengrasspony Featured By Owner Apr 8, 2012  Student General Artist
at the moment only one is cut out, and that one is only half sanded not even close to ready to be primed and painted
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:iconredshotronin:
RedShotRonin Featured By Owner Apr 8, 2012  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Post some pictures when you get done. Good luck!
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:icongreengrasspony:
Greengrasspony Featured By Owner Apr 9, 2012  Student General Artist
well you'll be waiting for a while then. i can post a picture of how far I am at the moment though
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:iconredshotronin:
RedShotRonin Featured By Owner Apr 9, 2012  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Go for it. Documenting progression is often a good idea, anyways.
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:icongreengrasspony:
Greengrasspony Featured By Owner Apr 9, 2012  Student General Artist
kk give me a sec to take the picture and upload it
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:iconalexxe666:
AlexXe666 Featured By Owner Mar 24, 2012  Hobbyist Artist
what is the make of the foam you used to make the keyblade? Keep up with the great work. ;)
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:iconredshotronin:
RedShotRonin Featured By Owner Mar 24, 2012  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Thank you, I will ^-^

I call it 'solid housing foam', but I'm not positive of its real name. It can be found in the insulation sections of large home stores, such as Home Depot.
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:iconalexxe666:
AlexXe666 Featured By Owner Mar 25, 2012  Hobbyist Artist
Your Welcome. ;)
Ok Thank you, we have BnQ and Wickes here in our country which do a lot of home stuff i will go check in their lol. ;)
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:iconredshotronin:
RedShotRonin Featured By Owner Mar 25, 2012  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Good luck with it! ^-^
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:iconsammyella1127:
sammyella1127 Featured By Owner Jan 30, 2012  Student General Artist
thanks
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:iconcredechica4:
credechica4 Featured By Owner Nov 12, 2011  Student Digital Artist
couls I use this techinque to make krato's swords and the blade of olympus? and how strong is it?
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:iconredshotronin:
RedShotRonin Featured By Owner Nov 14, 2011  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Yes, the technique can be tweaked to make things like that. They can be dropped a few times, but it's meant to be a prop. It's not going to stand up to a whole lot of bashing. If you need to strengthen it, I suggest multiple layers of resin, internal supports (wooden dowel rods and such) and a layer of thin polystyrene under the resin. This is just thin plastic that can be easily cut up. (That last one works better when you have larger flat surfaces to cover. It can be a bit of a pain with the Oblivion, but I've done it before.) If you like, Paperclay is more durable than Model Magic, although it is heavier.

And because I like her so much and have used her techniques before as well for different projects, this: [link] is another way to go about for more...chunky? projects.

Hope that helps!
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:iconcredechica4:
credechica4 Featured By Owner Nov 14, 2011  Student Digital Artist
it does thank you
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:iconimspiritb:
imspiritb Featured By Owner Nov 2, 2011
Im not sure if the resin I have will eat foam or not, and i cant get any other type. Do you know what i can coat the foam with before adding resin to protect it?
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:iconredshotronin:
RedShotRonin Featured By Owner Nov 3, 2011  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Unfortunately there's not a lot to be done on that front. The best you might could do is get yourself some gesso and coat the foam really thoroughly and with several layers before you give it a go with the resin. And test a small piece beforehand.

As a general rule, if the resin is clear, you're probably okay. If the resin is amber, keep it the hell away from foam. If I could ask, is the resin the kind you have to add a few drops of hardener to it, or is it a kind where you mix equal parts of A and B?
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